hayward blue essence troubleshooting

Hi Don, when its not an air leak, pump surging will then be an obstruction in the pipe, or filter, heater, check valve/filter valve/diverter valve, a bit of plastic usually (once I found a golf ball, in the skimmer pipe), that is pulled into a 90 or up against a port that is too small for the obstruction to pass. The most common places for an air leak on a pump include around the pump lid (must be really tight, with lubed o-ring), or a loose incoming water pipe bringing water (and air) into the pump. ), hard to tell until the pump can be tested. Hello Davy, you just saved me a few hundred bucks. If so pack a bead of Pool Putty around the fitting, or better yet, cut it out and replace it, using lots of Teflon tape or other thread sealant. But your superpump is fine on your AG pool. Ive had the pool for about a month and all has been fine but while I am ordering a new hose is there a replacement hose I can use in the meantime? The post-purge cycle will be completed once the blower prover switch closes. Any suggestions? The wire size may depend on the distance of wire run. No change. If this is an ABG pool, check the skimmer hose and adapter fittings. Hi you are getting power inside the motor, on the terminal board? Backwash several times to remove as much DE powder as possible, and then add 4 cups of DE powder for every 10 sq ft of filter surface area (see filter label if unsure). Should I worry? Any ideas why this would happen? Im still getting air? In most cases, it means that your motor is on the way out. Hayward Aquarite T-CELL-5 | 20,000G Replacement Cell - Salt Pool Store Pumps, Learn About 2) loose pipe coming into the pump (no sealant, or overheated and slightly shrunk), 3) Loose valve lids or o-rings, air-leaky valves in front of the pump (main drain, skimmer). Check the shaft, to see that it is spinning freely, then check the wiring to be sure no bare wires are touching bare metal, or each other, or is corroded, and that all wiring is tight and clean. Hi! For the filter, its a common problem, but its usually solved with soaking the fingers in a DE filter cleaner solution, or acid. My pump keeps overheating and shutting off. I can turn the switch to low and it will start and run then switch to high. Sounds like maybe youve tried it both ways, at water level and below water level? A start capacitor is supposed to only be energized for a few seconds to start the motor, and once the centrifugal switch opens and releases contact with the stationary switch, the capacitor is released. I checked that the switches and other electrical components properly tightened down and everything appears normal. I also see that some people with the same problem have had a power surge, or incorrect incoming voltage that has caused this error. Thanks. My Hayward pump II LX 1.5 horsepower. Or, a loose pipe coming into the pump can allow air intake. There isnt a break-in period for these units. If they are tight, pull out the cartridge and drain the tank whatever it is may be laying in the bottom of the tank. The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. Replaced the flow sensor as it seemed to run when lower RPMs on the pump and it now seems to cut it off when the RPMs on the pump drop like it should, and it will cut off when temperature reaches set heat of 93 for the spa. Fourth, check the motor shaft to be sure that it spins easily by hand, fifth, you can check the capacitor (for capacitance), if the motor still isnt starting. I have an sp3400vsp pump. Hi Wilson, I cant find any info on that error message paused / valve change but it would sound like it thinks that either a filter valve or directional valve is being turned, so it has paused water flow. Can I turn on this pump without water to check whether the motor is running? I tried starting again one morning but the pump wont start. If so, put the meter on the terminals where to cord connects inside the motor and see if there is power there. In the meantime, could you send me a link for the capacitor that I need? We have a c48l2n134b3 pump. If the pump makes no noise at all, turn on power, and with a multi meter, check the power at the pump, switch/timer and breaker, the problem lies where the power dies. When it gets up to speed, the switch is supposed to release the capacitor. But lack of sand should not cause a leaking problem. From the EcoStar technical guide: Check impeller and motor shaft for freedom of movement. It seems to be coming from the wet side of the pump the strainer housing. Also, if there is a GFCI outlet connected, perhaps it is tripped? Commonly appears on drain plugs, pump lids, pipe that screws into pump, or on incoming valves, like your Jandy. Step 3: Ensure that there isnt anything obstructing or blocking the flow. JUst installed new heyward pump . Also make sure that the pump has no air leaks from loose pipes, loose pump lid, low water level in pool For you Scott, the next step is to shut off power to pump and remove the Blue, Black and Red wires (page 4 owners manual) from the drive and check each motor lead to ground. I have a humming noise when plugged in, but can seem to get the cover off. ? I have back washed the filter about 6 times in 1 month, and even soaked the filter (the DE fingers) in a cleaning solution and also soaked it in Muriatic Acid for about 30 minutes. Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed, Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.). crooked house (2008 trailer) anyway I digress. Hi Mary, pump motors have a thermal overload switch, which trips when motor gets too hot, it resets itself when the motor cools down, and the motor should restart again on its own. I heard like a crank sound, as if somethings stuck between a propeller if there is. Step 3: Is your cell clean? If thats not the air leak, check the pump lid o-ring, Superpump square lid rings sometimes get twisted easily. I next realized the shaft (impellers) was frozen, and was able to free it up so it now spins smoothly. 3. slide pump backwards, out of the housing, remove diffuser and wear ring from impeller So I inspected the wiring into the electrical panel. Turned it off and then tried it again and it hummed for a few and the something glowed red and then stopped humming. Check that they are tight and havent come loose. Hi Ray, NOW you may have a bad capacitor. I am getting air bubbles coming from my return jets in my pool. IF its a broken off grease cap, tap in a sharp screwdriver into where it threads in, to get some bite, and then slowly and firmly back out the broken off threaded connector, turning CCW, then replace with a new Grease Cap, or a 1/8 threaded plug. Inground pool, 1 Bought new vac hose now own 3 My hayward powerflo matrix 1.5hp pump doesnt turn on after working fine the whole month of June. The water does not flow when the pump is turned on. I do not think its the breakerits relatively new. If it makes no noise at all, that is often a loose wire or no power. I checked the fuse and its good. Maybe the breaker is loose on the bar, or perhaps insects shorting it. Hi Vandee, By default the selector plug is in the 230V position, but in rare cases like yours, it may come mis-aligned or mis-attached from the factory, and need to be shifted. This is more of an indicator light than anything else. Test the capacitor for voltage, or just replace with exact MFD no. If your new pump is the exact same make/model/horsepower as the old pump, then the pump is not the problem but if you switched make/models check the pump flow curve, because even though it may be the same hp, different make/model pool pumps produce Vastly different flow rates. 1. check that the pump impeller and shaft are spinning freely. Hi, might have been a small clog in the pipe. Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves. Check the impeller and seal alignment. A hum sound is usually associated with a bad capacitor (motor rear, 9 oclock), however the capacitor is a battery that is only used on start-up, and is released within a second of start-up, but still could be related. Now the backwash is leaking a small amount water and the pump seems to be surging instead of running smoothly. Some inground pools used Flex PVC pipe to connect skimmers, and over 20-30 years, Flex pipe can develop internal nodules like polyps, that restrict flow. So My pool pump is two speed and I have it set to run for 3 hours in low speed and 5 in high. You can consult the flow charts for each model, to compare flow rates among two pumps, with a given (or assumed) level of resistance (feet of head). In most cases, no worries that it will blow-out to leave a leaking pump running. If regular loudness, its likely an air leak. What is the problem with those other motors? If it is on low it works properly. The new pump was very quiet yesterday when I installed it, but this morning, I notice there is a slight medium pitch hum in the system. As soon as I hook it up and it starts pumping water the pump slows down and struggles, the sound is very noticeable. The idea is to cut the pipe above the pump, and crank the fitting 1/2 turn tighter, to open the crack, pump it full of superglue and then quickly unthread the pipe out of the pump, at which point the crack will close up, and hopefully seal up. After Irma came through, we were without power for a week, the pump wont run on low speed and when it runs at high speed, it overheats after about an hour and shuts off. The pump does not start. This ONLY happens when I connect my vac hose. Normally when the device is turned off and we do get the lid off, water runs back into the basket from the filter, it almost sounds like its creating almost a vapor lock, like in an engine. Use a flashlight, and you should see gears moving thru the small view hole. Normally they last longer. We are getting a reading o the remote stating chlorinator is turned off High Temperature. It runs fine but no strong circulation. If the spa is draining while in spa mode, it must be sending some water back to the pool, either the valve is not closing all the way, allowing some water to return to the pool. The pump is working fine, however only the low speed is working. I would inspect it for corrosion, wire tightness, water damage or insect damage. You could also use a Hayward 24 sand filter, item E3324. I currently have Hayward RS750CA and it starts leaking underneath. have the pump motor rebuilt by replacing the bearings and shaft seal, or having an electric motor repair shop do it for you, or 2) replace the motor with an exact replacement motor + new shaft seal, or 3). 6. started having the problem Probably not cant think of another issue. Water began flowing out the pump motor and it tripped the gfci. If that all checks out, be sure that there are no air leaks on the suction side of the impeller, around the lid, drain plugs or pipe coming into pump. If you download the owners manual on the Ecostar there is some further information about Drive Errors, and some things you can try, in the troubleshooting section, to verify the fault, and also lists the part number for the drive, if needed. We replaced the handle assembly and valve per Hayward tech support that hasnt fixed the problem. "address": "",
But first, remove the fingers again, and soak the entire Nest Assembly in a bucket filled with pool filter cleaner, to dissolve oils and scale. Had a ball stuck under the skimmer basket, pump got hot and now will not turn back on. Use any type of multi-meter, digital or analog. There is also a leak somewhere in the system because there is water on the pad. Hi Jim, make sure the shaft of the motor (and the impeller) is spinning freely, rust can build up internally, and create a frozen pump in spring. Also, because of this leak, would It cause my pressure to decrease? hayward blue essence troubleshooting - Prismatalk.de I swapped the pump assembly with an almost identical Hayward that I found in the garage (bonus!) The low speed works fine. In most cases, its going to be #1, just a frozen motor as we say If the shaft spins freely, and it makes a hum or buzz sound for a few seconds before it trips the breaker, probably #4. IDXL2DB1930. Hi Steven, probably the breaker tripped or the GFCI test button popped out due to some water touching some wire. Also installed a brand new circuit box to allow for the bigger pump its a 20A GFCI breaker with 12 gauge wire going to the pump. They are higher voltage or whateverbut could that be the problem? Thank you Ship Weight (lbs) : 24.10 Could it be a bad cord? Backwashing or cleaning the pump basket is the usual fix. I keep reading that it could be a seal. After 30 seconds it overheats and shuts down. Home / Pool Equipment / Pool Heaters & Heat Pumps / Hayward Pool Heater Troubleshooting. It should be the receiving 115V or 230V, depending on how it is wired, plus/minus 10%. Hi Shelly, sounds like maybe the board got wet, or there is a loose connection, or power supply issues. I didnt plug the line and got a lot of water on the pump motor. The Super Pump comes with all these labels that say it is set up and wired for 230. Reinstalled Same problem recycled power. so.it shut off again. Hello, my motor runs for 20 seconds then stops. I just purchased a new pump for my pool. Learn more about pool care and repair. If very clogged, you can usually tell, because debris will float out and you can grab some of it with your fingertips or with pliers. Could also be low water level in the pool, or a stuck skimmer weir, blocking water flow. Hi Don, if you have four suction lines coming into the pump, that would be skimmer, skimmer, main drain and spa drain? Or spray with shaving cream (yes! This code will display if 120V polarity is reversed, low voltage is detected, or if the ground path is not sufficient. It is brand new. Lets see what we can do Could be a loose lid, or the basket not re-placed properly, and a clogged pump impeller. Hi James, I would think that could be one of the E-clips used on the bump shaft may have broken off, or an o-ring has slipped off. It seems to only operate in the highest speed. When the problem is after the pump impeller, like a clogged filter, closed return valve or clogged return line, the pressure will be higher than normal. Third guess is closed or broken valves, clogged filter, clogged impeller, or other obstruction preventing water flow. There is an internal fan, near the front of the motor, but it is inside and hard to see. On page 30 of the Aquarite troubleshooting guide, it goes into depth about troubleshooting that rectifier. If the shaft spins freely, no rust problem. Select Product to Register: Step 4: Enter the registration information for your product . Culligan Compatible TFM-36-A Aqua Cleer - 01-0074-02 Reverse Osmosis The filter is 3 4 years old. Thats either gears not engaged, or stuck or its a dead motor (timer motor). If i knew what make/model of pump you have, I could be more specific. Finally, in cases of very hard water, some of your sand bed may have calcified, and need to be replaced. "name": "In The Swim",
If the motor label says 115V/230V it is reversible, but if it says just 230V, Hi Chad, Does the mother board need replacing? JavaScript is disabled. Air leaks or other obstructions BEFORE the pump (including a clogged impeller), will cause lower than normal filter pressure. Also check that wires are tightly attached, at breaker, timer and pump. LibriVox is a hope, an experiment, and a question: can the net harness a bunch of volunteers to help bring books in the ' '' ''' - -- --- ---- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- Occasionally the salt level on the Hayward Aqua Rite may not match the actual salt level of the pool. ' "identifier": ""
6. inspect conduit and wires going from timer to pump, look for water in the conduit, or broken conduit, or rodent damage to wires. Probably a loose fitting, clamp or o-ring. Check that there is no additional valve to open on the backwash line, and if a flexible backwash hose is used, that it is rolled out.

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